(posted by John)
Every year all Dutch students receive a week long “fall break” where they do not have school for an entire week. Although not officially part of the Dutch school system, luckily ISA follows this fall break practice as well. Given that there are so many expat families at ISA who want to explore Europe during their European stay, most everyone takes advantage of this week long break to travel throughout Europe. This year we had friends travel to the following places: St. Petersburg, Russia; Paris, France; Rome, Italy; Auschwitz, Poland; Stockholm, Sweden…you get the idea!
Inspired by our friends the Pemantell’s, we decided to tour the Bavaria region of Germany and Salzburg , Austria . Another road trip! W e will be staying in four separate locations, two days at each site.
We departed home on Saturday morning, October 15th. We had about a five hour drive to our first destination, Rothenburg ob der Tauber. The drive was extended due to road construction (just like Minnesota !). On the way to Rotrhenburg we stopped in the town of St. Goar in the Rhine river valley. St. Goar is home to the Rheinfels castle http://www.ricksteves.com/plan/destinations/germany/rheinfels.htm. Built in the 13th century, today it sits in ruins following its destruction at the hands of the French revolutionary army in the late 18th century. This was the first real castle we toured as a family and it was quite exciting.
After eating dinner in St. Goar (pork and weiner schnitzel), we arrived in Rothenburg quite late. We went to bed right away to get ready for a full day on Sunday.
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Rheinfels Castle |
Although very touristy, Rothenburg op der Tauber certainly lived up to its billing as an authentic medieval town http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rothenburg_ob_der_Tauber. A business hub in the 13th and 14th century, Rothenburg experienced a decline in the 17th century after being sacked by an army that otherwise was just passing through. Following this event, the town was stricken by poverty until it discovered tourism (or tourism discovered it) in the late 19th century. Ever since, tourism has proved to be a boon for the town as most of the locals earn an income by supporting tourism.
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The streets of Rothenburg op der Tauber |
We started our morning with a quick breakfast at our hotel the Hotel Golden Grifener which is located in the house of Rothernburg’s former mayor Toppler. We stepped out of the hotel and walked 30m to the main market square. We climbed to the top of the clock tower of the town hall built in 1681 to get a bird’s eye view of this medieval walled town.
Jen and Ryan at the top of the clock tower |
We followed this by walking a section of the wall that protected the town in the middle ages. The wall is still intact so you get a genuine feel for what it must have been like 600 years ago. Windows designed for shooting arrows and canon turrets dot the wall as you walk. Following our walk of about half a mile of the city wall, we meandered through the well restored town, stopping for snacks and a little shopping. While shopping, we made friends with a very knowledgeable shopkeeper who told us more about the history of the town along with recommended restaurants. We ate at one of those restaurants for dinner where Matthew coined the song, “one schnitzel a day, and everything is going to be okay.” I guess he likes German food.
Our day ended with the Rothenburg “night watchman’s tour.” http://www.nightwatchman.de/index.php?&sprache=ENG. The tour starts at 8pm (after dark) and the Rothenburg night watchman (in full costume) told us an abridged, dark comedy version of the city's history. Ryan loved it. He’s always had a well developed sense of humor. I enjoyed it as well.
One last dessert was necessary before we headed to bed for the night. A good night’s sleep was necessary because Monday proved to be a BIG day…
Legoland Monday!
About 100km west of Munich sits Legoland Germany . A very well done amusement park and mini lego village http://www.legoland.de/en/. It felt a lot like a Lego Disneyland. We all had a great time, especially the boys :) Matthew wants to live in Legoland Germany …
Legoland Germany |
After finishing legoland, we drove to Munich where we would be staying for the next two nights. Munich is the historical capital of Bavaria http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Munich . Bavaria is the land of beer halls, sausage and sauerkraut. Is your mouth watering? A quick trip to a beer hall close to our hotel for dinner (which included sausage, schnitzel and large beers…for Jen and I) was exactly what we needed to conclude a great day.
We needed a slower start to our Tuesday morning and I needed a run! Between my run and the kids watching German cartoons, we all got exactly what we needed to recharge our batteries for the day. Following this leisurely morning, we arrived at the Munich town hall just in time to hear the noon bells ring and see the famous Glockenspiel performance http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rathaus-Glockenspiel. Like many European cities, Munich is a mix of the old and new. High end shopping, next to historic buildings. What makes Munich a bit unique is it was leveled during WWII. Following the war, the Munichers decided to rebuild the city to its former look. Today, it is difficult to find any visible remnant of the past destruction.
Following the Glockenspiel show, we walked to St. Peter’s church and climbed to the top! http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/St._Peter's_Church_(Munich) This provided a great view of the city.
Next we walked a few hundred meters to the Viktualienmarkt, an open-air market serving all sorts of food and beer. Throw is a beautiful sunny day, and I think this was the highlight of the day for Jen and I…enjoying good food & beer, basking in the sun, talking a little Bavarian history with our kids. Not to bad.
Next stop was the Frauenkirche, Bavaria ’s Catholic cathedral, and former church of the current Pope http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Munich_Frauenkirche. The Bavarian region of German is historically strongly Catholic and was one of the front lines of the battle against Protestants in the 16th and 17th centuries. The church itself was simple but impressive, made of brick vs. the typical stone churches we’ve seen thus far.
At this point we were beginning to wear down a bit. We walked by the Residenz, the home of the Bavarian royal family (the Wittelsbach’s) until 1918. The Wittelsbachs ruled Bavaria for nearly 700 years http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/House_of_Wittelsbach. More about them later in our trip… Just north of the Residenz we relaxed in the Hofgarden, a simple but very nice garden/park. In the middle of the garden was a large stone gazebo. A four-piece ensemble was playing an impromptu concert, mostly of Mozart classics. We relaxed and enjoyed the music…
As evening was upon us, Jen and I needed to recharge so we stopped at the world-famous Hofbrauhus beer hall http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hofbr%C3%A4uhaus. We enjoyed a couple beers and some umpah music. Matthew and Jen even polka’d a bit!
Polka time! |
At this point, we were spent, and needed some non-Bavarian food. We took the train back to our hotel and ate at a nice Italian restaurant. I think Italian food is our family’s true comfort food. What a day!
Wednesday was a transition day. We took a few more photo’s and played in a nearby park before departing Munich for the Bavarian Alps . On our trip to the Alps , we hoped to stop and play at an Alpine slide (summer luge), but the track was closed due to rain. Instead, we played at the park on the site and drove to our hotel for a couple hours of down time. Our hotel is a great lodge on the Austrian side of the border. We found a great Tirolian restaurant (this region of Austria is called Tirol http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tyrol_(state) ) and got to bed early. This was a good rest day before ramping up the sightseeing on Thursday.
It rained a bit Wednesday evening so we were concerned that our plans could be dampened for Thursday. Thursday morning we awoke to clouds, but no rain. In fact, if felt more like it could snow! Thursday was our day to tour the famous castles of “Mad” King Ludvig II of Bavaria http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ludwig_II_of_Bavaria. Both castles (his boyhood home of Hohenschwangau and his dream castle of Neuschwanstein ) we within about a 6km hike from our Gasthof. With the fall colors and the crisp mountain air, it felt like the perfect day for a hike.
The hike took about an hour and a half. Roughly halfway we crossed from Austria to Germany . The border crossing is pictured below:
The approach was great as the castle peaked out behind the trees as we decended down the path. Once we arrived in the village of Hohenschwangau , it became a bit touristy, but still amazing. Hohenschwangau castle was where King Ludvig II lived most of his life http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hohenschwangau_Castle. Once he became King in 1864 at the age of 18, he began planning to build his dream castle, Neuschwanstein http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Neuschwanstein_Castle. King Ludvig II died in 1886 at the age of 40. Upon his death, construction of Neuschwanstein was halted immediately and never completed. The state began admitting tourists to the castle only six weeks after Ludvig’s death. It has been said that Neuschwanstein was the inspiration for Cinderella’s castle at Disney World.
As we finished our castle tour, it began to snow! Not any accumulation, but enough to remind us of how cold it was outside. We hiked back to the hotel and enjoyed a great meal at our hotel. Jen and I were even able to have an extra drink together after the kids went to bed :).
A high exercise hiking day is just what we needed. The kids did great and we had a great time.
Friday morning was our day to depart the Bavarian Alps for Salzburg , home of the Sound of Music http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/The_Sound_of_Music_(film). The day consisted of a quick stop at the “church in the meadow” called Weiskirche http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wies_Church. This very ornate church was built in 1749 to house a wood carved statue of Jesus that was said to weep. Many people traveled great distances to see the weeping Jesus and thus a great church was built to house the carving and welcome visitors.
The rest of the day consisted of driving and dinner. As usual we found a great place to eat and had a wonderful dinner together as a family. We got to bed early in preparation for our last touring day of this trip.
Saturday was Salzburg , Austria day http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Salzburg. Salzburg was first established by missionaries around 700 AD. We stayed at the Villa Trapp…for you Sound of Music fans, yes, THE Villa Trapp, original home of the von Trapp family singers portrayed in the movie The Sound of Music. This was not the movie home of the family, but the actual home they lived in until they fled Austria in 1938.
Highlights of the day included climbing up to the fortress of Salzburg http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hohensalzburg_Castle and taking the Sound of Music bus tour. This consisted of seeing all the sights where the movie was filmed in Austria
We sang (ok, Allison sang) all the songs from the movie and had a great time.
On Sunday we drove across all of Germany (Salzburg to Amsterdam ) to arrive home Sunday evening. What a great trip!
Take care,
John